The French Quarter, Shanghai, China

The French Quarter and Shake Shack 

The Shanghai French Concession was a foreign concession in Shanghai, China from 1849 until 1943 and came to an end in 1943.  It was established on 6 April 1849, when the French Consul to Shanghai obtained a proclamation that conceded certain territory for a French settlement.

The area covered by the former French Concession remained the premier residential and retail district of Shanghai.

The French Quarter is an area west of the Bund, about 8km long comprising a number of small streets and is a highly desired area for non-Chinese to live.  Wukang Lu is a beautiful street, quaint and pretty, with outdoor cafes sprinkled here and there.  While on Wukang Lu, you wouldn't want to miss checking out Ferguson Lane on 376 Wukang Lu.  It is a charming pedestrian space with outdoor restaurants and wine bars.

If you're expecting a whole range of French restaurants forget it.  It's simply a collection of restaurants selling various types of food, and little else.

There is a shopping mall, further away from where the restaurants supposedly are, but there's little interest in finding them.  The happy house is far more important.

We settle, back in the French Quarter, in a place called the Shake Shack, located at No.10 Xintiandi North Block, Lane 181 Taicang Road, Huangpu District Xintindi 10-12 North Block, Shanghai, China.

I originally thought was the Snake Shack.  On closer inspection, and after being handed a menu, we discover it's a hamburger place.  Below is an idea of some of what the restaurant serves:

Is it like McDonald's, no.  The burger meat is real and the whole hamburger is absolutely delicious.  So are the fries, which are smallish well-cooked crinkle cut chips.

I had ice tea, which was real ice tea, not the sugary concoction you find in bottles, and the lemonade was real as well.

Value for money?  The prices were a little steep but, in my opinion, yes.  I'd go back again if I knew how to get there.

West Lake, Hangzhou, China. The gardens, and a cruise on the lake.

Next is our visit to the West Lake and surrounding gardens

West Lake is a freshwater lake in Hangzhou, China. It is divided into five sections by three causeways. There are numerous temples, pagodas, gardens, and artificial islands within the lake.

Measuring 3.2 kilometers (2 miles) in length, 2.8 kilometers (1.7 miles) in width, and 2.3 meters (7.5 feet) in average depth, the lake spreads itself in an area totaling 6.5 square kilometers (2.5 square miles).

The earliest recorded name for West Lake was the "Wu Forest River", but over time it changed to two distinct names.  One is "Qiantang Lake", due to the fact that Hangzhou was called "Qiantang" in ancient times.  The other, "West Lake", due to the lake being west of the city

It's about to get busy, with a number of activities planned, and the warmth of the day is starting to make an impact.

The tour starts in the car park about a kilometer away, but the moment we left the car park we were getting a taste of the park walking along a tree-lined avenue.



When we cross the road, once again dicing with death with the silent assassins on motor scooters.



We are in the park proper, and it is magnificent, with flowers, mostly at the start hydrangeas and then any number of other trees and shrubs, some carved into other flower shapes like a lotus.



Then there was the lake and the backdrop of bridges and walkways.

.

And if you can tune out the background white noise the place would be great for serenity and relaxation.



That, in fact, was how the boat ride panned out, about half an hour or more gliding across the lake in an almost silent boat, by an open window, with the air and the majestic scenery.



No, not that boat, which would be great to have lunch on while cruising, but the boat below:



Not quite in the same class, but all the same, very easy to tune out and soak it in.



It was peaceful, amazingly quiet, on a summery day



A pagoda in the hazy distance, an island we were about to circumnavigate.

Of all the legends, the most touching one is the love story between Bai Suzhen and Xu Xi'an. Bai Suzhen was a white snake spirit and Xu Xi'an was a mortal man.

They fell in love when they first met on a boat on the West Lake, and got married very soon after.

However, the evil monk Fa Hai attempted to separate the couple by imprisoning Xu Xi'an. Bai Suzhen fought against Fa Hai and tried her best to rescue her husband, but she failed and was imprisoned under the Leifeng Pagoda by the lake.

Years later the couple was rescued by Xiao Qing, the sister of Baisuzhen, and from then on, Bai Suzhen and Xu Xi'an lived together happily.

The retelling of the story varied between tour guides, and on the cruise boat, we had two.  Our guide kept to the legend, the other tour guide had a different ending.

Suffice to say it had relevance to the two pagodas on the far side of the lake.


 
There was a cafe or restaurant on the island, but that was not our lunch destination.



Nor were the buildings further along from where we disembarked.

All in all the whole cruise took about 45 minutes and was an interesting break from the hectic nature of the tour.

Oh yes, and the boat captain had postcards for sale.  We didn’t buy any.
 

Lunch



At the disembarkation point there was a mall that sold souvenirs and had a few ‘fast food’ shops, and a KFC, not exactly what we came to China for, but it seemed like the only place in town a food cautious Australian could eat at.



And when tried to get in the door, that's where at least 3 busloads were, if they were not in the local Starbucks.  Apparently, these were the places of first choice wherever we went.

The chicken supply by the time we got to the head of the line amounted to pieces at 22.5 RMB a piece and nuggets.  Everything else had run out, and for me, there were only 5 pieces left.  Good thing there were chips.

And Starbucks with coffee and cheesecake.

At least the setting for what could have been a picnic lunch was idyllic.

Shaolin Kung Fu, near Zhengzhou City, Henan Province, China

After leaving the hotel in Zhengzhou, what was once one of the eight ancient capitals of China, we are going to Dengfeng city, and the home of China’s most famous martial art - Shaolin Kung Fu.

The Shaolin Temple nearby is the origin of Chinese Zen Buddhism, and the Songyang Academy, called “the Centre of Heaven and Earth” is located 87 Km from Zhengzhou, or, as we were advised, a 2 hour drive.  It will be scenic because we are heading towards the mountains.

As one of the four ancient Song Dynasty Academies, Songyang Academy is one of many schools in the province.  It is both on a large-scale, is quite spectacular, and is a comprehensive Wushu training base where students are trained to spread the Shaolin Wushu Kung fu style at home and abroad.

There is a 500 seat demonstration hall where you are able to observe 30 minutes of various martial arts in shows starting on the hour.

Outside there is a specific area that generally has about 600 trainees learning kung fu elements during the day, but can hold 5,000 [ep[;e when outdoor performances are required.

The kung fu school

The thing you notice most about the kung fu school is it's size and then the number of buses which tells you that it is a popular tourist stop.

And with that size comes long distances between the car park and the venues we need to go to, the first of which is about half a km, and that's just to get to the ticket plaza.



But, it is pleasantly set out and is quite a large number of shops for both souvenirs and food



We pass by some of the students going through their paces



From there it's another long, long walk to the show arena, where we're supposed to see various kung fu elements on display.  We watched this for a few minutes, then headed off towards the hall for a more intense demonstration of kung fu, and because there is limited seating we have to start lining at the head of the queue to get a seat.

But...

Everyone else has the same idea and we join the throng which then becomes a ride, and true to the Chinese they start finding ways to push in, even using the imaginary friend somewhere ahead in the queue.

The doors open and then it's open slather, with the hoards pushing from behind and sliding up the side to get in first.  We go with the tide, and manage to get in and find a seat though we were separated from three of our group.

It was an interesting show even though not one word of English was spoken, which from our point of view was a disappointment because we had no idea what was going on.



However...

It wasn’t hard to follow



What the performers were doing was relatively self-explanatory, and quite fascinating especially the guy who broke a sword over his head, and the guy who stopped two spears penetrating the neck, both examples of very disciplined men.



Boys gave a demonstration of kung fu moves, and intensity and age increased as this progressed to the end.

Next, we were taken in hand by an instructor in Tai chi or an equivalent, I was not quite sure what it was called, and went through the twelve or maybe more moves that constituted a morning or afternoon exercise session or it could be just for relaxation.  I lasted the first session but it was a little difficult to do with my sore limbs and a bad back.

Not that I could remember any of it now other than hands overhead, hands in front, bent knees, and a few gentle kung fu hand moves.

Perhaps when I get home I might seek out someone to show me the moves.

Whilst the others were following their training instructor, I wandered about, finding a large statue

                                        
 
And some smaller statues

Lunch in the Zen Restaurant

After all that exercise it was time to have the lunch purportedly the same food as the king fu masters.
It's in the Zen restaurant, aptly named, and the food when it came, came thick and fast, but some of it wasn't very nice, meat with bones, tofu, a tasteless soup, but some good dishes like the vegetables and noodles with meat, without bones.

The only problem, nothing to drink except a pot of hot water.  No tea, no cold water, and if you wanted a cold drink you had to pay for it.  After paying 550 yuan why should we have to pay more for a drink when we have not had to so far.

But no cold water?  That was just not on, and when we brought this to that attention of the tour guide she just simply ignored us.  We just didn't get anything.

That basically tainted the whole experience.

After lunch,  we had the Shaolin Temple, and the Pogoda Forest to visit.

From X'ian to Zhengzhou dong by bullet train, China

Lunch and then off on another high-speed train

We walked another umpteen miles from the exhibition to a Chinese restaurant that is going to serve us Chinese food again with a beer and a rather potent pomegranate wine that has a real kick.  It was definitely value for money at 60 yuan per person.

But perhaps the biggest thrill, if it could be called that, was discovering downstairs, the man who discovered the original pieces of a terracotta soldier when digging a well.  He was signing books bought in the souvenir store, but not those that had been bought elsewhere.

Some of is even got photographed with him.  Fifteen minutes of fame moment?  Maybe.

After lunch, it was off to the station for another high-speed train ride, this time for about two and a half hours, from X'ian to Zhangzhou dong.

It's the standard high-speed train ride and the usual seat switching because of weird allocation issues, so a little confusion reigns until the train departs at 5:59.

Once we were underway it didn’t take long before we hit the maximum speed



Twenty minutes before arrival, and knowing we only have three minutes to get off everyone is heading for the exit clogging up the passageway.  It wasn't panic but with the three-minute limit, perhaps organized panic would be a better description.

As it turned out, with all the cases near the door, the moment to door opened one of our group got off, and the other just started putting cases on the platform, and in doing so we were all off in 42 seconds with time to spare.

And this was despite the fact there were about twenty passengers just about up against the door trying to get in.  I don't think they expected to have cases flying off the train in their direction.

We find our way to the exit and our tour guide Dannie.  It was another long walk to the bus, somewhat shabbier from the previous day, no leg room, no pocket, no USB charging point like the day before.  Disappointing.

On the way from the station to the hotel, the tour guide usually gives us a short spiel on the next day's activities, but instead, I think we got her life history and a song, delivered in high pitched and rapid Chinglish that was hard to understand.

Not at this hour of the night to an almost exhausted busload of people who'd had enough from the train.  Oh, did I forgot the singing, no, it was an interesting rendition of 'you are my sunshine'.

The drive was interesting in that it mostly in the dark.  There was no street lighting and in comparison to X'ian which was very bright and cheerful, this was dark and gloomy.

Then close to the hotel our guide said that if we had any problems with the room, she would be in the lobby for half an hour.

That spoke volumes about the hotel they put us in.

Every flight is different - Sydney to Bejing

Sydney to Beijing - Qantas A330-200

Boarding 11:45, everyone on board by 12:02, for a 12:10 departure.

Pushing back 12:12

Take off 12:27

Lunch

Airline food is getting better but the fact they serve it up to you in a metal tray with a thick aluminum lid does nothing for the quality of the food inside.  I get what the chef is trying to do but often there is too little of one thing and too much of another and what you finish up with is slop in a tray.  Sometimes it's edible sometimes it's not.  

Sometimes the meat is tender and other times it's like boot leather.  As it is today.

I think it's pork, I should have had the chicken.  Or perhaps it was chicken.  I hate it when you can't tell what it is that you're eating.

But, the drinks were good.

Rest or Sleep, maybe

It's going to take 11 hours and 20 minutes from Sydney to Beijing, a long time to sit in a plane with nothing much to do other than crosswords, read a book or newspaper or magazine, listen to music on your own device, or the in-flight entertainment, watch a movie again by the in-flight entertainment - if it works - or try to get some sleep.

I started with the crosswords but got bored quickly.

I fiddled with the in-flight entertainment, looked at the movies and tv shows but none really interested me, not then at least, so I set it to the flight path.

Not exactly stellar entertainment, but it's always interesting to know where the plane is.

Or is it?

If we crash, what good would it do me to know it's somewhere over the ocean, not far from Manila, or somewhere else.  It's not as if I could phone someone up, on the way down, to let them know where we are.

But, just after dinner, we still haven't left Australia

However, by the time I've finished fiddling with and dismissing all of the entertainment alternatives, it's back to the flight path and now we are...

Somewhere approaching the Sulu Sea, which I've never heard of before, so it looks like I'll have to study up on my geography when I get home.

OK, Manila looks like somewhere I've heard of, so we have to be flying over the Philippines.  Not far left of that is Vietnam.  Neither of those places is on my travel bucket list, so I'll just look from up here and be satisfied with that.

Working, or not

Chronic boredom is setting in by the time we are just past halfway to our destination. We are over 6 hours into the flight and there no possible way I'm going to get any sleep.

I brought my GHalaxy Tab loaded with a few of my novel outlines, and planning for missing chapters, thinking I might get a little thinking time in.  Plane rides, I find, are excellent for getting an opportunity to write virtually unhindered by outside interruptions, if, of course, you discount the number of times people brush past, knocking your seat, the person in front lowering the seat into your face, or people around you continually asking you to turn off your light because they're trying to sleep.

Sorry, I say, but you can suffer my pain with me.  It's one of the joys of flying with over two hundred others in a claustrophobic environment.  Besides, aren't the lights supposed to be slanted so only I get the rays of light?  Except, I guess when the fixed light doesn't line up with where the airline has fixed the seat (usually so they can squash more people in).

So, sorry, not sorry, take it up with the airline.

Back to work, and I put in some quality time on a part of the story that had been eluding me for a while.  I knew what I wanted to write, but not how I was going to approach it, so that blissfully quiet and intense time worked in my favor, something that would not have happened back hope.

I won't bore you with the synopsis, just suffice to say it's finally down on paper, digitally that is, and it's a huge step forward towards finishing it.

There is, of course, the end play, the reading of the will but not before there's a few thrusts and parry’s by some of the players, but all in all the objective was to showcase a group of people with their strengths and weaknesses pushing their characters in various directions, some at odds with what is expected of them.

But enough of that.   A quick check of our position shows we’re still over water but closer to our destination, so much so, we might start the pre-landing rituals, starting with food.

Dinner

7:00 - Dinner is served, well, the lights go on and a lot of tired people try to shake the sleep, and sleeplessness, out of their systems.

Then flight attendants that are far too cheerful, and must have beamed in from somewhere else, serve another interesting concoction that says what's in it but you can't really be sure of the ingredients.  It comes and it goes.

9:10 - We begin our descent into Beijing, you know, that moment when the engines almost stop and there's a sickening lurch and the plane heads downward.

9:56 - We touch down on the runway, in the dark and apparently it has been raining though from inside the plane you'd never know.

10:10 - the plane arrives at the gate,  the usual few minutes to open the door, and, being closer to the front of the plane this time, it doesn't take that long before the queue is moving.

Early or late, it doesn't matter.  After clearing customs and immigration, we have to go in search of our tour guide, waiting for us somewhere outside the arrivals terminal.

A trip to China - Day 10 - A day in Shanghai, sort of - Lunch, and Old Shanghai

 
The French Quarter and shake shack 

If you're expecting a whole range of French restaurants forget it.  It's simply a collection of restaurants selling various types of food, and little else.

There is a shopping mall, further away from where the restaurants supposedly are, but there's little interest in finding them.  The happy house is far more important.

We settle, back in the French Quarter, in a place called the shake shack, which I originally thought was the snake shack.  On closer inspection, and after being handed a menu, we discover it's a hamburger place.

Is it like McDonald's, no.  The burger meat is real and the whole hamburger is absolutely delicious.  So are the fries, which are smallish well-cooked crinkle cut chips.

I had ice tea, which was real ice tea, not the sugary concoction you find in bottles, and the lemonade was real as well.

Value for money?  The prices were a little steep but, in my opinion, yes.  I'd go back again if I knew how to get there.


Old Shanghai

I'm not sure I'd go as far as to say this is in reality old Shanghai, but a true representation of it architecturally, yes it is.  The houses, which are shops, are set out symmetrically, with owners, alleyways and squares which may prove that it was specially built for the tourists.



Anyway...

The buildings are magnificent, and a photographers delight, and you'd finish up having hundreds of photos by the time you leave.



As for buying stuff, remember if you're not Chinese you have the sucker tourist stamp on your forehead, so be prepared to walk away if the vendors will not bargain.  Nothing here is worth the price tag and in our group discounts like from 130 RMB to 50 RMB and from 1 for 1,200 to 2 for 950 RMB are common.

Here common t-shirts that we can get for 3 dollars back home start at 150 RMB which is roughly 35 dollars.  It's that kind of market.

We end up is a tea room, on the third floor of the meeting point below, and discover all the tour guides sitting around a table counting money.  It is we were told where they discussed 'strategy'.

A trip to China - Day 9 - West Lake, gardens, a cruise, and lunch

Next is our visit to the West Lake and surrounding gardens

It's about to get busy, with a number of activities planned, and the warmth of the day is starting to make an impact.

The tour starts in the car park about a kilometre away, but the moment we left the car park we were getting a taste of the park walking along a tree-lined avenue.



When we cross the road, once again dicing with death with the silent assassins on motor scooters.



We are in the park proper, and it is magnificent, with flowers, mostly at the start hydrangeas and then any number of other trees and shrubs, some carved into other flower shapes like a lotus.



Then there was the lake and the backdrop of bridges and walkways.

.

And if you can tune out the background white noise the place would be great for serenity and relaxation.



That, in fact, was how the boat ride panned out, about half an hour or more gliding across the lake in an almost silent boat, by an open window, with the air and the majestic scenery.



No, not that boat, which would be gre3at to have lunch on while cruising, but the boat below:



Not quite in the same class, but all the same, very easy to tune out and soak it in.



It was peaceful, amazingly quiet, on a summery day



A pagoda in the hazy distance, an island we were about to circumnavigate.

We did get a story about a woman who was a snake, a monk, and a man who married the woman, but the details in between were a little hazy.  Suffice to say it had relevance to the two pagodas on the far side of the lake.


 
There was a cafe or restaurant on the island, but that was not our lunch destination.



Nor were the buildings further along from where we disembarked.

All in all the whole cruise took about 45 minutes and was an interesting break from the hectic nature of the tour.

Oh yes, and the boat captain had postcards for sale.  We didn’t buy any.
 

Lunch



At the disembarkation point there was a mall that sold souvenirs and had a few ‘fast food’ shops, and a KFC, not exactly what we came to China for, but it seemed like the only place in town a food cautious Australian could eat at.



And when tried to get in the door, that's where at least 3 busloads were, if they were not in the local Starbucks.  Apparently, these were the places of first choice wherever we went.

The chicken supply by the time we got to the head of the line amounted to pieces at 22.5 RMB a piece and nuggets.  Everything else had run out, and for me, there were only 5 pieces left.  Good thing there were chips.

And Starbucks with coffee and cheesecake.

At least the setting for what could have been a picnic lunch was idyllic.

A trip to China - Day 6 - A Kung Fu School

Day 6 - Shaolin Kung Fu, Temple and Pagoda Forest

The brochure says: Today enjoy the day at leisure or take the opportunity to join an optional full-day Shaolin Kung Fu experience with lunch (not included). Visit the Shaolin Temple, nestled in the forested mountains of Henan, its the birthplace of Kung Fu and Zen Buddhism. The Shaolin Temple embraces many exciting attractions, such as the Hall of Heavenly Kings (Tianwangdian), the Mahavira Hall (Daxiongbaodian), the Pagoda Forest, the Dharma Cave and the Shaolin Temple Martial Art Training Centre.

Then continue your visit to the Pagoda Forest, where hundreds of stone pagodas, memorials to past monks, are tightly grouped together in the forest. You may also have the chance to watch an amazing exciting Shaolin Kung Fu performance at the Martial Arts Hall and may follow the masters there to learn your Kung Fu here (subject to availability).

But before we leave, there’s more about the hotel.



Separate doors for shower and toilet, and on the other side of the passage, the wash basin



Feng Shui seems to have been forgotten when planning this room.

The next morning we discover that other rooms do have bathrooms but they're small.  Some have neither tissues or toilet paper, another has a faulty power socket and cannot recharge the phone, and I'm sure there are other problems.

All in all, it seemed very odd to have the toilet and shower on one side, and the washbasin on the other side of the passage.

We leave the hotel at 8:47 and are looking forward to an up to 2 hours drive.

The kung fu school

The thing you notice most about the kung fu school is it's size and then the number of buses which tells you that it is a popular tourist stop.

And with that size comes long distances between the car park and the venues we need to go to, the first of which is about half a km, and that's just to get to the ticket plaza.



But, it is pleasantly set out and is quite a large number of shops for both souvenirs and food



We pass by some of the students going through their paces



From there it's another long, long walk to the show arena, where we're supposed to see the king fu display and because there is limited seating we have to start lining at the head of the queue to get a seat.

But...

Everyone else has the same idea and we join the throng which then becomes a ride, and true to the Chinese they start finding ways to push in, even using the imaginary friend somewhere ahead in the queue.

The doors open and then it's open slather, with the hoards pushing from behind and sliding up the side to get in first.  We go with the tide, and manage to get in and find a seat though we were separated from three of our group.

It was an interesting show even though not one word of English was spoken, which from our point of view was a disappointment because we had no idea what was going on.



However...

It wasn’t hard to follow



What the performers were doing was relatively self-explanatory, and quite fascinating especially the guy who broke a sword over his head, and the guy who stopped two spears penetrating the neck, both examples of very disciplined men.



Boys gave a demonstration of kung fu moves, and intensity and age increased as this progressed to the end.

Next, we were taken in hand by an instructor in Tai chi or an equivalent, I was not quite sure what it was called, and went through the twelve or maybe more moves that constituted a morning or afternoon exercise session or it could be just for relaxation.  I lasted the first session but it was a little difficult to do with my sore limbs and a bad back.

Not that I could remember any of it now other than hands overhead, hands in front, bent knees and a few gentle kung fu hand moves.

Perhaps when I get home I might seek out someone to show me the moves.

Whilst the others were following their training instructor, I wandered about, finding a large statue

                                        
 
And some smaller statues

Lunch in the Zen Restaurant

After all that exercise it was time to have the lunch purportedly the same food as the king fu masters.
It's in the Zen restaurant, aptly named, and the food when it came, came thick and fast, but some of it wasn't very nice, meat with bones, tofu, a tasteless soup, but some good dishes like the vegetables and noodles with meat, without bones.

The only problem, nothing to drink except a pot of hot water.  No tea, no cold water, and if you wanted a cold drink you had to pay for it.  After paying 550 yuan why should we have to pay more for a drink when we have not had to so far.

But no cold water?  That was just not on, and when we brought this to that attention of the tour guide she just simply ignored us.  We just didn't get anything.

That basically tainted the whole experience.

After lunch, we went for another half kilometre walk to the Shaolin temple.  The walk was exhausting but only in the sense that we knew there would be more inside the temple, and then onto the pagoda forest which was according to the sign yet another half a kilometre.